Sunday
Someday a real rain will come and wipe this scum off the streets.Robert De Niro as Travis Bickle, Taxi Driver, 1976
That's what I was thinking of today, walking around in the half-rain. I was in the city that starts with "
M" and ends with "
arse, eh?" .... and there's probably a good reason for that.
Marseille is the first city I haven't liked in France. It does have a few gems though and the train ride was pretty nice ..... but
Marseille, second in population (with one million) only to Paris as a whole is a real hole. Maybe it was just because I was there in the half-rain .... maybe because it's not next to the sea like the rest of the cities I've been to here .... it's hard to say, I was only there for three hours.
You guys haven't seen the bus station in Sophia yet, and no one was there this morning to wonder why a guy would be taking pictures of a bus station so I took one:
Gare routière des Messugues
a SONA-tagged shed at the bus station
I guess SONA is a local tagging group or gang or something. No one I've talked to knows .... but they make some great "art".
I decided Saturday night that I'd try to catch the 9:07am train to
Marseille even though the bus to the train station is
scheduled to arrive at 9:10am. If I missed that train, I'd just take a train to
Monte-Carlo or something. No big whoop, right
Linda Richman? So I get to the train station at 9:11am or something and figured the train was long-gone. But TV monitor with the scheduled trains said that it was leaving at 9:15, so rushed to get a ticket and all that and MADE IT. I was pretty happy at the time .... :)
The express train to Marseille makes very few stops. The schedule in the
SNCF book is:
| Stop | Time |
| Antibes | 9:07 |
| Cannes | 9:18 |
| St-Raphaël-Valescure | 9:41 |
| Les Arcs-Draguignan | 10:01 |
| Toulon | 10:40 |
| Marseille | 11:20 |
The train was practically empty where I was sitting, so I took over the whole row (4 seats) and went back and forth taking pictures (you can tell by the blur direction, maybe - heh). I took a lot of pictures on the train, so I'll just go through them in order stop by stop.
some houses
graffiti - it's on the walls like that all the way to Cannes
graffiti
"dee plane, boss - dee plane!"
Cannes - 9:18
local relief
St-Raphaël-Valescure - 9:41
houses, mountain
Les Arcs-Draguignan - 10:01
At this stop about half-a-dozen burly French army guys got on the train and busted up my seat hogging party. I didn't mind though, I'd rather sit with military guys than complete strangers.
Les Arcs-... train station
Les Arcs-... train station (um, I think)
A little subject-left-to-right blur
I think these are grape vines ... not sure ... but they were quit common
if you move your head fast enough, this will come into focus as - more vines (I think)
more hills and buildings
the geology starts to get more impressive ...
... and continues ....
Toulon - 10:40
Some background on Toulon: it's a very important French military port. I was going to visit it, but after reading about it I'm not as anxious ... the port is dominated by huuuge military vessels and there are very few beaches .... yeah I know,
boooo. :)
Toulonian building
Toulon train station - very practical, lots of
quais (
more than Nice) but not as "nice" looking ...
In case you've been under a rock (or are over 25),
Radiohead released their new album,
Amnesiac recently. The disc is pretty pricey here (about 145F - around 30 bucks), but I already have it anyway .... I downloaded it piece by piece from the net about three months ago and brought it here</brag> ... heh. Seriously though ... it's good stuff. Anyway, I told you all of that because they have these GREAT two-ad Radiohead posters at all of the train stations around here ....
*droooooool*
... geology still impressing ...
... geology still impressing ...
a farm
... and, I'm spent.
Marseille - 11:20 ... and I was there.
train station looking in
train station looking out
The train station in
Marseille is a little different - you don't through it, you park in it like a garage. This gives them a lot more room for
quais (platforms), I guess.
looking down the quai - pr. "kay"
The
Marseille train station is under pretty major construction, so I didn't have a good place to stand to get a good picture of it. It's also at the top of a very large hill. But I did get a picture from the top of a large stairway leading down from the station ...
looking down Boulevard D'Athènes
looking back up the stairway - oh,
there's the station :)
So I walked down that boulevard until I saw this on my left:
church
and naturally walked closer:
church
... while walking to the church it started to rain. I also started to get lost, so I pulled out my map that I bought at the train station and found where I was. After I did that, I looked up and saw one of those large maps (like the ones in malls) with a "you are here" label on it. Yep, it was one of those days.
That corner (another six-street intersection) was the first time I started feeling uncomfortable in France. There were lots of men around ... and they weren't doing anything, not talking to each other, but sometimes sleeping ... all in the rain. It was kinda weird. Weirder still is that I'd see a girl with one of those mini see-though umbrellas skipping across the street during all of this ... it was like a prelude to
trouble in some
Tarantino movie ... so I (briskly - heh) headed in the direction of the port, now that I knew where it was .... but before I left:
closed to the public - silly
Then I started walking down
La Canebière, I believe and took some pictures along the way ....
trees make good stationary umbrellas in a pinch
the corner of La Canebière and Boulevard D'Athènes
buildings
Ciné les Varietes
important building (it has its own clock, you see - heh)
Bourse et Chambre de Commerce (side)
Bourse et Chambre de Commerce (front)
looking back up La Canebière
Hotel à Hargome(?)
... and just as I was about to hit the port, I saw this to my left:
neat-o, pillars!
ah, it's the OPÉRA MVNICIPAL
OPÉRA MVNICIPAL (the whole she-bang)
making my way back to the port, I saw this, which is right in front of the port (the property must have cost a fortune):
these things spread like weeds
... moving along ... on the east side of the port is a large round-about-slash-intersection. In the middle of it are two large gardens with flowers and grass for dogs to doo on ... :)
the green sign reads: "Caution, wet grass"
des fleurs
It was then that I was conned out of 140F (~30 bucks). I won't tell you how it happened, only that it did and that I have two very expensive pictures (not from my camera) to prove it. Damn Marseille. Damn stupid me. So that was pretty much the last straw, and I didn't really feel like being there any more ..... but I was there, and I probably wouldn't be there for a while so I decided to take more pictures anyway on the walk back to the train station ....
church tower, appartment buildings and a stairway to the street above, from the port
it's quite blurry, but there's a gold statue up there
castle at the entrance to the port
another castle on the other side of the port
then I left the port, cursing .... :)
across the street from the port - staircase (it looked nice enough from there, but smelt terrible)
building on Rue de la République
looking up Rue de la République
post offices are always good-looking buildings in France *shrug*
L'Arc de Triomphe! seriously!
Marseille has one too :)
and as I was walking from the Arc to the train station, I spotted this through a chain link fence:
crazy-good graffiti (would have been nice to be able to get closer)
The train ride back was a lot different. The train was packed and I had an aisle seat so I couldn't really take pictures. I was in a seat where you face the people in front of you, so there are four people with a table in the middle sort-of-thing. The three other guys slept.
The first thing I did was read the "Tourist" info part of the map I bought (which I should have done when I bought it). You see,
Marseille was, for a long time, a very important military and shipping port. It was fought over furiously and for a long time (even though it was part of a greater governance) it was run pretty much independently. When
Marseille was given to France with the rest of
Provence, the citizens rebelled. Concequently, the French government (King) built the two castles at the entrance to the port - to guard the port (there used to be a chain strung across the port entrance, which was stolen once by Italians and is currently on display in Italy) and to watch the dissidents in the port that liked to cause trouble because
Marseille was no longer independent. They were both used mostly as prisons long ago. I think some of that independent spirit still lives on and I did not feel too welcome there - just a note to travellers. Besides, there are more beautiful cities you can spend your valuable vacation time in .... like Antibes! :)
After that I read the first two chapters of
The Hobbit covering, amongst other things, the intricacies of being
dwarvish (which is different from being
dwarfish, apparently) .... it's a slow read. Good. :)